Let`s Build a Canoe

About a year ago, I stumbled upon a YouTube video on the German channel "SWR Handwerkskunst." This video showcased the process of a skilled boatbuilder crafting a skin-on-frame canoe. I found the video to be incredibly inspiring, and it sparked a desire within me to try my hand at this craft.

Following that inspiration, I promptly ordered a book authored by S. Jeff Horton, which delves deep into the art of building skin-on-frame canoes. I highly recommend this book if you wish to delve further into the intricacies of constructing such boats. Unfortunately, the book only contained plans for a single-person canoe. To fulfill my vision of a different canoe design, I scoured various canoe shapes and utilized reference images to create my own 3D model. From this model, I generated detailed plans.

I crafted the 3D model using Fusion 360, and you can download it in step and f3d

format below. In case you don't have access to Fusion 360, I've also prepared downloadable plans and templates that you can print out, available for download below.

The resulting boat measures approximately 4.9 meters in length and 80 centimeters in width.

Supplies

Materials

I have constructed the canoe using a combination of traditional and modern materials. For the wooden components, I utilized four different types of wood for their specific properties:

1. Red Cedar: I employed red cedar for the stringers (the wood strips on the sides supporting the tarp), the keel, and the gunwales (the double strips at the top). A single piece, slightly longer than 5 meters, is required for these parts. Red cedar is highly flexible, lightweight, and resistant to rot, making it ideal for any parts that need to be bent.
2. Bamboo: I used bamboo for the bottom boards, which are typically used as terrace substructures. (You can also use red cedar or plywood or any other suitable wood.)
3. Marine Grade Plywood: For all frame pieces, stern and stem pieces, I opted for marine-grade plywood. It comes in sheets, is easily cut, and offers excellent stability.
4. Walnut: To join the gunwales at the front and back, I used walnut. Its distinctive appearance adds an attractive touch to the design.

To connect the wooden pieces, I utilized stainless steel screws and waterproof polyurethane wood glue. To conceal the screws, I countersunk them and inserted mahogany plugs into the holes. However, you can also use regular dowels or leave the screws visible.

I applied a standard wood oil finish to protect the wood.

For the skin, I employed ballistic nylon fabric with a weight of 310g/m². To waterproof it, I used Coelan boot paint. To secure the fabric onto the frame, you will need a piping cord. I used a grass trimmer mowing line from our hardware store for this purpose. To sew the fabric together, I used a nylon line also sourced from the hardware store.

You will also need a sturdy surface to build your canoe on, known as a strongback, which is used to secure the frames and ensure everything stays aligned. I used 5 meters of Globaltruss event truss, but typically, you would use a long wooden beam matching the length of the boat.

Suppliers

Obtaining some of these materials can be a bit challenging, especially if you're not sure where to find them. If you're in Germany or Europe like me, here are some tips on where to order these items:

• Nylon fabric: Extremtextil.de
• Boat paint: compass24.de
• For wood, you can inquire at a carpentry workshop. They often order wood in larger quantities and can also place an order for you. In my case, the carpenter also cut the wood to size with his panel saw.

Tools

Building a canoe doesn't require an extensive array of tools:

1. Table saw / Circular saw / Bandsaw: You'll need a saw capable of cutting your large piece of red cedar into thinner strips. If you don't have the space for handling 5-meter-long wood beams, consider using a carpenter's panel saw.
2. Bandsaw / Jigsaw: These tools work well for cutting out the frames, and either one can be used.
3. Japanese pull saw: A good handsaw is essential for cutting slots into the frames or trimming the stringers. Japanese saws are particularly suitable because they make precise and thin cuts.
4. Drill: You'll need a drill to fasten the wood together and drill holes.
5. Router: While not strictly necessary, a router can save you a significant amount of time when chamfering or rounding edges.
6. Some other hand tools like a hand jigsaw, sandpaper

Step 1: Cutting the Stringers and the Whaletales

First of all, you need to cut all the long wood strips from red cedar. You can cut the strips a bit oversized and plane them down if you'd like; this will save you some time when sanding.

I've prepared a cutting list that you can download below:

Step 2: Making Frames

To create the frames, you need to follow a series of steps:

1. Crafting a template for the frames: I've ensured the canoe is symmetrical, so you'll only need to create a template for half of the frames. You can work on one half of a frame at a time, as the template can be easily flipped over. I personally employed my CNC Router to make the templates, but alternatively, you can print them on paper and cut them out with a jigsaw. The template plans are provided below for your reference.
2. Marking the frames: To mark the frames, begin by marking one half. Position a ruler along the straight portion and draw a line. Then, flip the template and mark the other half using the ruler as a guide. At this stage, we won't be cutting slots for the stringers into the frames because we'll do that later to ensure they match the angle of the stringer. When marking the frames, I extended the rounded lines between the stringers to create smoother edges where the frames meet the stringers. In the boatbuilding book, they cut these now and make them slightly oversized, but I've avoided this step as I plan to use wood glue and screws to attach the stringers to the frames, minimizing any play.
3. The next step involves cutting out the stem and the bow (front and back of the boat). You can leave the top a bit longer and trim it later to the desired length.
4. Next, I chamfered all the edges of the frames and the stern.
5. Now, I've also cut the slots for the keel at the bottom (as it is nearly perpendicular to the frames). To accomplish this, I used a Japanese pull saw to cut into the frame, followed by a hand jigsaw to remove the bottom section.

Step 3: The Strongback and the Keel

The Strongback

The strongback plays a crucial role in the construction of a canoe. It serves to secure the frames in place when the stringers aren't properly attached, ensuring that everything is correctly positioned. You can use any stable material as a strongback; I personally used a 4-meter global truss, but a thick wooden beam would suffice as well. Once you have your strongback in place, the next step is to mark the locations for the frames. Please refer to the diagram below for guidance. Now, proceed to create the frame holders. I utilized leftover pallet wood for this purpose. I recommend making the top frame holder as wide as possible. To secure the frames, I clamped them between two pieces of wood. On the bottom side, I simply fastened them onto the strongback.

The Keel

Moving on, it's time to attach the keel to the frames. Insert it into the slots we previously cut, taking your time to ensure it aligns as closely as possible with the plans. Once you have achieved the correct position, glue and screw the parts together.

Subsequently, trim the keel to the appropriate length and secure the stern and bow to it by skewing them at the front and back.

Now, you must create a seamless transition from the keel into the bow and stern.

Step 4: The Stringers and Floorboards

The Stringers

To attach the stringers, I began in the middle by clamping the wood strip in the correct position. Then, I affixed the strips to both the stem and bow simultaneously to ensure symmetry and prevent the canoe from bending.

Creating the Slot for the Stringer

The next step involves using a cutoff piece of the stringer to mark the areas that need to be cut out on both sides of the frame. Subsequently, I used a pull saw to make cuts into the frame at the top and bottom of the stringer, following the marked lines from the cutoff. To complete this, I utilized a hand jigsaw to cut out the bottom portion.

Mounting the Stringer

Upon completing the cuts, I countersunk the holes using an 8mm drill bit and predrilled the holes for the screws. Then, I applied wood glue along the seam and secured the stringer to the frame with screws.

Trimming the Stringers

After properly aligning and securing the stringers to all the frames, I began trimming them at the stern and bow. To accomplish this, I clamped a 5mm piece of plywood to the bow and cut it flush through the stringer. It's important to note that after the initial cut, the fit might not be perfect due to varying angles. Therefore, continue this process until the stringer fits snugly onto the bow. When working with the two stringers on the right and left sides of the keel, be meticulous and take your time to ensure proper alignment.

Attaching the Stringer to the Bow and Stern

To secure the stringer in place, I used a long dowel, wood glue, and screws. I drilled a hole through the two stringers and the bow for the dowel. Then, I applied wood glue and used screws for additional support.

The Floorboards

To begin, I cut the floorboards into small strips using my bandsaw. Next, I used a power planer and a router with a roundover bit to smooth the strips. I then created shallow indentations in the frames to accommodate the floorboards and secured them in position. If the strips were slightly too short, I fashioned a small middle piece to bridge the gap. To achieve this, I cut the rough shape out of cardboard and created small plywood pieces to match the edges of the stringers precisely. This template was used to shape the wood. Finally, I trimmed the floorboards flush with the last frames.

Step 5: The Gunwales and the Deck

The Gunwales

To secure the gunwales, I initially had to ensure they fit the mounting points properly. I began by clamping one gunwale on each side to the bow and stem, bending them as needed to align with the frames. Once I had them on a good position, I used clamps to affix them to the frames.

Next, I used the gunwale to mark the angle on the top of each frame. Afterward, I removed the gunwales and made the cuts at the marked angles, ensuring that there was a 16mm thickness between the gunwales and a depth of only 20mm. I then carefully bent and clamped the gunwales to fit into these new cut slots. I proceeded to mark the required depth for each frame, ensuring a gap-free fit, and cut out the marked sections. Subsequently, I affixed the gunwales securely to the frames. As for the inner gunwales, I simply tailored them to fit together seamlessly. Currently, they remain unmounted on the front and back portions.

Moving on, I proceeded to cut small strips of wood to fit snugly between the gunwales. Once all of these pieces were fitted, I fastened them from both sides and trimmed any excess with a pull saw.

Finally, I employed a sander to smooth out any uneven edges resulting from the bending process.

The Decks

In the process of creating the decks (the wooden components that secure the inner gunwales in position), I first marked the dimensions of the bow and stern on the wooden pieces and carefully cut them out. I then positioned these parts accordingly and marked the shape on both the left and right sides, ensuring a slight overlap. Following this, I executed the cuts and created an edge parallel to the end of the cutout for the bow and stern. Additionally, I routed a generous chamfer on this edge. After fitting it in place and using a flash trim bit for the router to achieve a perfect fit with the boat, I concealed the screws and carried out a thorough sanding to finish the job.

Step 6: Finishing

Covering Screw Holes

The initial stage of the finishing process involves concealing all the screw holes. In my case, I fashioned mahogany plugs for these holes using a plug drill on the drill press. Subsequently, I applied glue to secure the plugs in place and then used a pull saw to trim them flush.

Sanding

Following the plug installation, the next step was to sand any edges that might be too sharp and potentially damage the fabric. Additionally, I sanded all the plugs and visible surfaces to ensure a polished appearance.

Wood Finish

Once the sanding was complete, I proceeded to apply a wood finish. I opted for regular wood oil to enhance the wood's resistance to rot and maintain its durability.

Step 7: Make It Waterproof

Alignment

The initial step in attaching the fabric involves ensuring it is positioned correctly. To achieve this, I aligned it both in the front and back along the keel.

Attaching the Fabric

Subsequently, I employed a stapler to temporarily secure the fabric to the keel. Afterward, you gently pull the fabric down and staple it to the frame. It's crucial that the fabric lies taut on the frame, but there's no need to overdo it, as the nylon fabric will tighten when it becomes wet later on. Commence stapling in the middle and pull the fabric down, avoiding pulling it towards the bow or stern. When reaching the bow and stern, you can cut the fabric along the keel and then carefully staple it temporarily in place on one side. Repeat the same process for the other side of the canoe. For cutting the fabric, I utilized a custom cutting attachment for my hot air soldering station to prevent fraying at the edges, but you can also simply use scissors (although I recommend leaving the fabric slightly longer when using scissors).

Sewing the Bow and Stern

For the front and back sections, you'll need to sew the fabric together. I'm by no means a sewing expert, but the method I used worked effectively. I began at the lowest point on the keel, placed one side under the other, and folded the top side to hide itself underneath. Then, I sewed the folded fabric together with the lower one, creating a seam in the center of the stern and bow. Whenever I approached a stapler needle, I removed it. Once both sides were finished, I removed all the stapler needles along the keel.

Attaching the Piping Cord

The next critical step is attaching the piping cord, as it ensures the fabric won't slip out from under the Rubrails (two strips of wood secured to the Gunwales to hold the fabric in place). To attach it, I first unrolled my mowing line and folded the fabric over it to create a straight line approximately half a centimeter below the boat's edge. Then, I stapled the folded sections to the gunwales.

Adding the Rubrails

Before attaching the rubrails, you must trim the fabric, cutting it so that it protrudes about 1.5 cm.

Now, you need to attach the Rubrails. To do this, simply clamp them onto the gunwales, pressing them up against the piping cord. Then, countersink the holes about 2-3 mm deep and screw the Rubrail to the gunwales. This will provide the necessary strength to hold the fabric. Afterward, add the plugs for the holes and cut them flush.

Wetting the Fabric

Next, wet the canoe. The nylon fabric will absorb the water, and after it dries, it will tighten around the frame.

Painting the Fabric

Lastly, paint the fabric to waterproof the boat. I used boat paint, but it's essential to choose the right type of paint, as some may not adhere to nylon or become brittle over time. I applied several coats of Coelan boat paint, and after that, the boat became waterproof.

Step 8: Result

All in all, it was a fun project and a good challenge for me. And now, we have a beautiful wooden canoe that was cheaper than the lame aluminum ones. If you want to build the canoe using this guide and something is unclear, feel free to ask.