Introduction: Portable Indoor Light With 100W LED Chip

By youtube.com/@DIYPERSPECTIVE
About: For anyone wondering I fully transitioned to producing 3D printing content only on YouTube. Old videos are no longer available but all full detailed Instructables are still here if you want to make any of my p…

In this instructable/video I will show you how I made portable indoor light with 100W LED chip which is powered with a 19V 90W power supply from an old laptop.

UPDATE 2 (FINAL):

Temperature around the LED ( 37C stable @85W after 30mins in a 20C room) video: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wRjJV7rdmN74Lqg-...

Temperature probe in a hole around the LED with the thermal paste: https://i.imgur.com/p143KRH.jpg

Provided Amazon links are affiliates

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    Step 1: Preview of the Build

    Some preview shots of this project.

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    Step 2: Making Threads

    I started with drilling holes and making threads for the screws that will hold 100W LED chip. As this process isn't that hard I won't go into details.

    For the LED I used CPU cooler which is capable of 100W heat dissipation.

    Step 3: Securing LED

    I added thermal paste, spread it across all surface of the LED and tightened with M3 bolts.

    Step 4: Making All Parts

    I cut all parts for this project from 12mm thickness plywood. Front part which will be in front of the LED, took most time to make.

    Step 5: Making Front

    I routed two gaps for the wires from the LED and glued the parts which will make the front of the light.

    Step 6: Making Back

    On the back piece, I made two wide holes for the air to go in for the LED cooling.

    Step 7: Bad Desicion

    I glued side parts to the back part. But I forgot to cut the corners first. I suggest just connect those parts with two screws in each side without gluing. This way you can dissemble the parts when you need.

    Then I made pilot holes for the booster and step-down module.

    Step 8: More Cutting

    I cut top corners of the pieces that will hold main frame of the light. I also cut two small blocks and made pilot holes in them.

    Step 9: Heatsink Fastening

    I made pilot holes in the sides, attached small blocks to the heatsink and extended pilot holes into the small blocks.

    Step 10: Electronics

    Before connecting anything, adjust output voltages of the step-down module (to 6-7V, for the fan) and the booster (to 31V, for the LED) if you are using 19V and 90W power brick from an old laptop.

    But if you will use more powerful power supply you must use booster module with constant current adjustment (like this https://amzn.to/2D7LCR8 ). I used the booster without constant current adjustment, because with a 19V 90W power supply even in "ideally perfectlyworld" running LED at 31V I would get max current of 2.9A and the LED that I used is rated for 3A. More realistic, with power losses, when converting 19 to 31V you should get like 2.5A MAX. So to be clear, for these LEDs, you should always use booster with constant current adjustment.

    Even if 90W is max power for these 19V power bricks, you shouldn't run them on max power. For long term use you should aim somewhere from 80-85W, as running on max power, overheats power brick quite fast. Meanwhile running on lower wattage, power brick just gets warm.

    Also by not fully utilizing power capabilities of the LED you run it way cooler, fan produces less noise and you extending LED life time by a lot.

    Step 11: Making Holder

    I drill hole into the back piece for the power cable, and made more holes for the holder which will hold main frame of the LED.

    Step 12: Simple and Easy

    By doing this way, you hide the nut, which holds the bolt and on the outside you can tighten the frame at any angle with clamping nut.

    Step 13: MOAR Pilot Holes

    I made more pilot holes into the frame holder and into the pieces at the top and the bottom.

    Step 14: More Progress

    Next, I glued front piece to the back piece. While glue was drying, I made slot by drilling not the all the way through for the tripod mounting parts or just for any wire to hang the light.

    Step 15: Sanding / Painting

    I sanded with all parts assembled and painted with all parts disassembled with white color paint.

    Step 16: Soldering

    I left only two power wires and cut others from the fan. I soldered two wires to the LED and added solder on the step-down module's contacts while it is easily accessible.

    Step 17: Assembling

    I tightened the booster, step-down module and small blocks to the cooler. For more protection I added electrical tape behind the LED contacts.

    Step 18: Assembling

    I tightened the bolts, soldered two more wires (these will go to the step-down module) and screwed wires from the LED into the booster where OUT is written.

    Step 19: Assembling

    I screwed 19V power brick wires to the booster where IN is written and hotglued the cable.

    Step 20: Everything in Place

    Finally, I soldered those previously attached wires to the LED wires to the step-down module's IN connections. And wires from the fan to OUT connections on the step-down module. Thin wire can be secured with some hot glue.

    Step 21: The Finish

    I assembled all parts and the light is DONE! To be honest I really like the look of the light. The light frame is very sturdy!

    Step 22: Stats

    At 31V this light consumes around 85W. The LED doesn't heat too much and heatsink after 30min gets barely warm at 20C room temp.

    Step 23: BE AWARE

    Don't buy cheap no name power bricks. Better buy used from well know names like Samsung, HP, Dell, Lenovo and so on. Cheap power bricks with high amps usually are scam. Those are very light compared to OEM ones.

    Step 24: AMPS

    Avoid these cheap connectors which are rated at 3A MAX for this build. Connect power brick wires directly to the booster or use connectors like XT30 which can handle 30A MAX.

    12V power brick can be used, but it's inefficient don't bother using it.

    Step 25: Comparison

    Comparison with my previously made 90+ CRI photography LED panel.

    LED that I used in this project (Chanzon 100W 4000k) is good enough for the basic portable high lumen lighting, like in garage and etc.

    But if you want to make high CRI photography lighting, you can use 100W LED like this: https://amzn.to/2CnZR2w

    But then I suggest using 19V 120W or 135W power brick and booster with constant current adjustment ( https://amzn.to/2D7LCR8 ) to prevent burning the LED with higher current than it is rated for.

    Step 26: THE END

    I hope this instructable / video was useful and informative. If you liked it, you can support me by liking this Instructable / YouTube video and subscribing for more future content. Feel free to leave any questions about this build.

    Thank you, for reading / watching!

    Till next time! :)

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