I need a place to work on my projects, whether its electronics, wooden, metal or any other project.

A decision was made, A workbench!

I wanted this workbench to be comfortable to work on and a place where I arrange and store my tools.

Step 1: Design

The first step of designing is understanding your environment, meaning what you want to build in front of the limitations...

My general idea was a workbench that can suit any kind of project and which will have storage to contain all my tools in an orderly fashion...

My main limitations are, my workspace is indoors with limited space. By those limitations, I decided to go for a something mobile and as foldable as possible in a way which will stay comfortable to work.

After few notebook sketches, my final design is a workbench that has 3 levels, high shelf, working table and low shelf. The dimensions are 120cm width, 170cm high, 70cm depth.

Another challenge was to make the workbench mobile as its usually very massive and should endure heavyweights. This led me to careful study and design few mobility mechanisms. finally, I choose a mobility mechanism from a video I saw and had to adjust to my measurements (see pictures).

Step 2: Tools & Materials

Tools:

Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Drill
Multi-tool (optional, I used Bosch)

Materials:

Pinewood
Plywood 2cm thick
Plywood 0.4cm thick
Screws
Wood glue
4 X Casters
6 X Book Hinges
4 X L Shape metal corner brace
On wall electricity socket
4m electricity wire
Metal wire

Step 3: Workbench Skeleton

First, I started with cutting the four legs 170cm each and six bars 120cm each. next, I started to assemble them together.

The starting point is to create the narrow sides first in the shape of a rectangle. there are three considerations here, the rectangle join point with front bars (see picture), the folding extension for the table, and for the lower shelf, it should not disturb your legs while sitting to the table.

After two sides were assembled, I hooked both of them with the six bars, to form a partial box shape.

Note: all join point I used both screws and wood glue, for the screws I first drilled a leading hole to prevent the wood from splitting (this method will also come handy later when joining hard plywood and the soft pinewood).

Next, I cut the plywood to fit the frame of the two shelves and the main table the plywood will also help strengthen the whole structure. I attached the plywood again with screws in the same method I mentioned above and with "L" shape metal braces.

Step 4: Folding Extension

When I built the workbench skeleton I left space for the extension, I didn't want it to stick out of the frame. so I cut 5cm frame for the extension and a matching plywood piece.

Now to attach the extension to the table using two hinges.

The thing to pay attention here is to level both of the surfaces with hinges, I will highlight the "pay attention" here because I first attached them together and only after I saw I had a problem with the space the hinges created.

To solve this problem I curved the hinges into the main table using a multitool and the unwanted space was reduced to my satisfactory.

Next, I have added a support from below, with two diagonal bars (see picture).

To lock the extension in a "closed" position I drilled a hole and put a metal rod.

Step 5: Mobility Mechanism

I really loved working on this step, it started with a little bit of studying and digging on the web. then I came across this youtube video by Carl Holmgren which gave me the general idea of what I wanted and thought will work best with my workbench dimensions.

I think this solution is very simple, easy to accomplish and it leverages the workbench weight instead of using springs or something similar.

The greatest part is you enjoy the benefits of both Stationary and mobile workbench, with nearly zero effort!

Steps:

Cut two 50cm boards for the casters
Attach 2 casters on each board
Measure and mark the height of the board, the wheel needs to stick out of the workbench leg ~0.5cm
Attach the hinges on the opposite side of the casters and to the legs of the workbench
Cut 60cm board and attach it to the left caster board
Cut 10cm board and 120cm board and attach them, one on top of the other, to the right caster board.
Put back the lower shelf
Cut L shape, which will be the handle to press
Mark the place where you will press down and bring the workbench up (on the casters), Drill and cut the hole for the handle
To lock the handle carve 1cm (when the handle is pressed) on the height of the shelf

Step 6: Electricity

I set the electricity socket with two screws to the table, drilled a hole in the table for the cable to go through,

From beneath the table, I drilled another hole through the frame.

Next, I connected the electrical wire to the socket and pulled it through its holes and attached the wire to the frame with the holders.

Step 7: Pegboard

This step divides, the Firat section is the pegboard creation and assembly, and the other section is the perks to hang the tools on.

Pegboard

I marked the measurement for the back of the workbench and cut the thin plywood with a utility knife.

Attached the plywood with nails, one every 15cm.

Next came the hard part... the pegboard holes, I started drilling a hole from the front, just so ill have a reference to the matrix starting point.

I decided to go for 5cm spacings, so from the first hole, I marked every 5cm on the rectangle.

Next, I started drilling which was very very tedious, there were 368 holes to drill...

Perks

I used the metal wire to create the hangers, there are 2 types one is just a simple "S" shape, the other looks like a nose, I used a set of pliers to bend the wire to the wanted shape. these hangers can easily suit any tool I would like to hang on the pegboard.

Another thing I created was a shelf for screwdrivers:
I cut a 5cm board, marked on the board 2 hole from the pegboard, drilled 6 holes on the board for the screwdrivers to be placed in, the only thing left is two wire that a shaped as L, to hang on the pegboard.